Всем Здравствуйте. Каждое утро(а иногда и днем после простоя машины, иногда почти сразу после сброса ошибки и 1-2 минутного простоя(в основном на холодную)) Появляется ошибки P3001 и P3000-123 и не горит Реди. После сбрасывания P3001 все заводиться. Встречал в интернете, что возможно дело в оптронах в блоке управления батареей(фото их прилагаю, да они почему то темные, это не грязь ничем не оттирается), но с другой стороны если бы была ошибка в этом блоке, то она бы вылазила сразу и вообще бы ничего не давала.
Высоковольтные провода были проверены, высоковольтные реле тоже, сопротивление параллельно реле тоже, провода все которые снимаю напряжение с каждой пары элементов в порядке, да и сканер все параметры показывает. т.к. До старта ток никуда дальше Реле и блока управления уйти не может, могу предположить что проблема именно в блоке управления батареей.
Подскажите пожалуйста что еще можно проверить, чтобы найти паршивца 
Также параллельно вылазят 2 ошибки P0135 и P0141, подогрев 2х лямд не исправен, слышал что на них есть пред, но так найти его не смог, подскажите где искать пожалуйста.
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once more I find my self needing more assistance from all you fine folks out there. I have a 2001 prius that I bought from a garage . To get to the point, it had a dead battery pack so I put a good used one in. It will start and run but I keep getting code p3001 which indicates a bad battery ecu. I replaced the battery ecu to the original one that was in the car ,but I still keep getting the code along with all the lights. I did some looking and was told to replace the HV. ecu which I also replaced ,but it did not solve anything. I unplugged a harness while it was running and than got code p3100 which indicates HV. ecu failure.. So I am not sure what is going on ,talked to toyota tech and he said it does not need to be reprogrammed ,but you have to buy a new one as the vin # in the ecu will not match up.. any help out there for me???thanks
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I can’t help you until you get your own, Prius aware, OBD scanner. Feel free to search this forum for the options. Sad to say, Ohio is not quite a ‘day trip’ from Huntsville so I can’t run up to ‘lend a wrench.’
Bob Wilson
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Okay so sorry for the delay,I finally got my Autoenginuity scan tool in and bought the toyota enhanced version. Any how I plugged it in and played with it a few moments. I now have codes p3000, and p3001 from the HV ECU, and from the Bat ECU I got p3009. So I now assume that the p3009 is in the battery because it comes on the minute you turn the key on and you can not reset it without it coming right back on. The bad thing is this battery has on 30k on it and I believe it because when I picked it up it looked brand new inside. It did not have corosion or the BAD green blue stuff on the terminals so I did not bother to spend much time taking it apart. I guess now it will come back out of the car so I can go over it. Hope this will fix all my codes.. I will update ,but it takes me a while as I do this on the side and I am very busy.. Thanks for all the input….
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I’d like to suggest reading the 19 module pair voltages while you’re at it . . . ‘carpe diem’.
Bob Wilson
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Thanks I already got those,they are all within like 0.3volts of each other. They were all at 78 % soc also. I have another 01 that I bought with a known good battery pack. will switch packs and find out if codes go with the pack..
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Plan to work on the car tomorrow after noon ,so I will post back tomorrow night with an update.. On the bright side, by the time I get done with this mess I will be more educated than I was before I started and might be able to point somebody else in the right direction….
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Okay ,so here is the update I promised. The good news is,The battery pack is good. I swapped it to another 01 prius and it worked perfect. The bad news is,well I am not sure yet if its in the main harness or transmission. It appears to have a different trans put in,but I pulled the pan and drained the oil when I got it and it all looked good. It also appears to have a different invertor put on so the fun begins..Now I have more questions than answers ,Was the main pack dead from sitting for a couple years and was the reason it was sold because of p3009 and p3001? SO far the codes are still from the hv ECU p3000 and from the bat ECU p3001,and p3009. I welcome any input at this point,as I am kinda at a loss.. But I will get it figured out…stand by for updates .. I will try to update thu.
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Just to make sure:
- P3009 stayed with the vehicle after the battery swap and did not go with the traction battery?
Ok, now it becomes harder. The typical way of fault-isolating a resistance path to ground is a MEGer but these use high voltages to test insulators but these voltages are risky for electronics. If you have or can borrow a MEGer, disconnect MG1 and MG2 from the inverter and test the transaxle for leakage to frame ground without the inverter. Then test the cables disconnected from the inverter and battery. If no luck, it suggests the inverter may have a problem.
You’re in a new area and we’re interested in your progress.Bob Wilson
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Another approach to P3009:
![[IMG]](data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg%20xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%20viewBox='0%200%200%200'%3E%3C/svg%3E)
The fault is found by finding the part closest to ground.
GOOD LUCK!
Bob Wilson -
Bob, that looks like a nice technique. Is it possible the diagram has a couple small typos?
The large equation Vmeter = Vpoint * Rmeter / (Rmeter + Rleak) seems to be correct (if I’m looking at this right).
In working the example, though, you seem to have evaluated Vpoint * Rleak / (Rmeter + Rleak) … which will give a very different result when Rmeter is large and Rleak is small.
Also (though this is only a quibble) the diagram suggests leak-to-ground (< 1 MΩ) and then the example uses a 5 MΩ leak.
I notice you use 14.4 V in the example, same as a pair of modules, just as the ECU voltage taps are laid out. Do you think this technique might lend itself to a quicker procedure by creating a deliberate leak of some known, safe resistance at one end of the battery, then using a scantool and the ECU voltage readings?
-Chap
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I was more interested in sharing the technical approach and as you’ve pointed out, there are subtle aspects that need to be considered. Also, it presumes the existence of a single ‘Hi Z’ fault to ground and in the real world, there may be more than one.
My hope is we might collaborate on a general approach, perhaps one not so dependent upon having a MEGER. Better still, one that can handle ground faults outside of the traction battery as in this case.
What we want is a non-destruct, safe protocol for finding ground faults that may be in either the inverter or inverter-to-motor circuits. This is not a trivial problem but one I don’t think is well documented in the maintenance manual (or my memory of those sections.)
Bob Wilson
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usnavystgc
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Since we’re talking about P3009, here’s a procedure I’ve posted b4. It really seems like it should isolate the fault. No megger required. Here it is:
Prius P3009 High voltage leak code
I want to share a simple, but very accurate method of determining the source of high voltage leak codes on the Toyota Prius.
The first step is to clear the P3009 trouble code and then turn the key or push button to key on/not ready mode, (This is IG ON on a Gen I or the second position on the ignition switch (after ACC)) wait 30 seconds and if the code comes back, the leak is in the battery case. If the code does not set, turn key or push button to «ready mode»(start on the Gen I) and immediately shift to neutral and stay this mode for 30 seconds. If the code returns, the leak is in the power cables or inverter. If the code did not set, shift to drive and if the code resets now, the leak is in the transaxle. This is something that can be done in about minutes with a scan tool while never removing any components and not leaving the driver seat.Keep in mind we’re looking for the P3009 code to come back so a scanner of some sort is necessary.
Does anyone see any reason why this wouldn’t work?
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The only problem I can see is the unknown about how long a ground-fault has to exist before the code is set. I don’t know that anyone has done that experiment … but I may have occasion to in the future.
I’m seriously looking at an upgraded inverter for my wife’s 2010 Prius provided I can find space to mount it under the passenger bench. IF SO, then I have no problem with tapping the traction battery as a power source to that inverter and with a high-voltage fuse (aka., think solar panel type), in it goes.
What I don’t know is if the high-voltage terminal taps are going to see a ground-fault in the 3d party inverter so there will be a test.
Bob Wilson
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I finally got back from trip,so I have not had much time to work on the car.
Let me try to explain in better detail what the car does. If you turn the key on without starting the car,the code appears immediately, and you can erase the code but it comes right back within 3 seconds. I thought it was the battery pack ,but i put the battery pack in a different prius and there were no codes and the car drove perfect. I do not believe it is in the trans. as you do not have to start the car for the code to appear,however from my understanding the next logical point would be invertor. Has any one tried to remove the 2 high voltage lines from the invertor and use a multi meter and check voltage to vehicle ground? thanks for the help so far,I will keep you updated.. -
3prongpaul
Hybrid Shop Owner, worked on 100’s of Prius’sYes, you can unhook the two big orange connectors at rear of inverter and test to ground. If there’s a leak it’s usually so small you may not detect is without a megger (aka insulation tester). This is part of the full troubleshooting procedure in the Gen1 service manual, Arts talks about it a bit here.
Prius 1st gen — Replacing TransaxleIf P3009 is because of bad MG2 in the tranny, you may be able to detect it with a normal ohmmeter instead of a megger…since the winding are often burned up real good. Remove wiper cowl stuff, open the black rectangular HV wiring cover on the inverter. (this covers the orange MG2 wires).
Unhook MG2 wires from inverter, hold them «in the air» and test each of the orange leads to chassis ground with a regular Ohmmeter. If you have a bad enough MG2 the ohmmeter will register a dead short and no megger is needed….just a new MG2 stator
You can check MG1 HV wires too (the round connector) but I have yet to see MG1 electrically fail.
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Judging by the test, it clearly points to the battery case. I know you put it in another G1 and it worked fine and I can’t explain that.
The person who came up with this test is the owner of ReInvolt. You might try contacting/emailing him to see what he says.
If we look at this logically, putting the car in IG ON (not ready) would exclude the transmission and the inverter from the loop. With that in mind, we can only assume that a connection to the batt pack (in this car) is bad (since it works fine in the other car). The fact that the light comes on right away with IG ON, clearly points to the battery (and associated components) and away from the transaxle and inverter.
If it were me, I would try to isolate the batt case from the car (with a rubber mat or something) and see what happens. I would also try to contact ReInvolt to see if he could expound on the test and offer advice for your specific situation.
Pls know that I’m not anywhere near an expert and don’t claim to be. I’m just a guy that is trying to come up with ideas to help you. Approach everything with caution and please double check my logic.
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Well I know I am no expert either but from the way I understand it,that test does not exclude the invertor. The reason for my thinking is that when you turn the key on engine off, the invertor powers up and charges the 12 volt battery. At least it does on mine. Now I do not know whether it gets any power to the transmission at this point but I do not believe so,because the engine needs to be running before the car will move. Thanks 3prong paul for your info. Yes you are correct from what I have experienced also. But I do not think this is in the transmission as it drives fine and there are no grinding noises from the trans. when you coast in neutral. I will try to give you an update this Sat. Thanks for all the good help..
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What did you observe that led you to conclude that? On mine, if I measure voltage at the 12 volt battery terminals, it does not change from the rest voltage (12.72 or lower) to the charging voltage (13.8) until the car is put in READY.
Another way to think about it is to remember that any power the inverter can use to charge the 12 volt battery must be drawn from the traction battery, and the system main relay doesn’t close until the car is put in READY. That information’s in the manual.
Hope this helps,
-ChapEdit: hmm, do we know for sure that your system main relay actually opens when you turn the car off? An SMR stuck closed might explain various strange symptoms including your car charging the 12 V in a condition where ours do not. It would also complicate your diagnosis of a ground fault, to say nothing of endangering you in the process, so it’s probably worth ruling out.
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Okay , I might be confused here. By ready you are saying the key in the on position prior to starting it? That is what happens on mine. I turn the key to the on position and in about 2 seconds the ready light comes on and you can see the head light get brighter ect. I forgot to mention you can also hear the main relay clicking in the back of the car a split second before the ready light comes on..My car has 4 key positions off ,acc, on, and start. MY BAD. I AM CONFUSED. I was wrong ,my ready light does not come on till I hit start..I am sorry for the mistake…..
![[IMG]](https://priuschat.com/threads/2001-prius-code-p3001.119973/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fhiwaay.net%2F%7Ebzwilson%2Fprius%2FP3009_010.jpg&hash=18a5260e8154ef20005cd1f1088be649)
What Does Toyota Prius Code P0301 Mean?
- Toyota Prius P0301 definition: Cylinder 1 misfire detected.
- Issue Severity: SEVERE – Stop driving immediately.
- Repair Urgency: Fix this code immediately (same-day if possible) to avoid ignition failure, catalytic converter damage, and dangerous conditions.
- Diagnosis: A cylinder 1 misfire can be caused by anything from faulty spark plugs to low engine compression. Because there are so many variables that could cause a misfire, the best cost savings is to find a trustworthy repair shop to diagnose code P0301 as quickly and accurately as possible.
Your Toyota Prius moves when gasoline is burned and power is generated inside a chamber known as the cylinder. Most engines have a 4, 6, or 8-cylinder engine, where more cylinders typically mean more power. Power is generated by pistons that move up and down while fuel is ignited at very specific times. A misfire typically occurs when the timing of this ignition is off. P0301 indicates that cylinder #1 is experiencing misfires.
Most Likely Repair And Cost For Toyota Prius P0301 By Year
The chart below shows the most likely repair and cost range for Priuss for all of the years that FIXD has data on.
| Year | Most Likely Repair | Cost Range |
|---|---|---|
| 2017 | Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Passage(s) w/P0302 | $50 – $150 |
| 2016 | Cylinder Head Gasket(s) | $2226 – $3770 |
| 2015 | Cylinder Head Gasket(s) | $2226 – $3770 |
| 2014 | Cylinder Head Gasket(s) | $2226 – $3770 |
| 2013 | Cylinder Head Gasket(s) | $2226 – $3770 |
| 2012 | Cylinder Head Gasket(s) | $2226 – $3770 |
| 2011 | Cylinder Head Gasket(s) | $2226 – $3770 |
| 2010 | Cylinder Head Gasket(s) | $2226 – $3770 |
| 2009 | Ignition Coil(s) | $51 – $173 |
| 2008 | Spark Plug(s) | $58 – $167 |
| 2007 | Ignition Coil(s) | $51 – $173 |
| 2006 | Spark Plug(s) | $58 – $167 |
| 2005 | Spark Plug(s) | $58 – $167 |
| 2004 | Ignition Coil(s) | $51 – $173 |
| 2003 | Ignition Coil(s) | $51 – $173 |
| 2002 | Ignition Coil(s) | $51 – $173 |
| 2001 | Spark Plug(s) | $58 – $167 |
Toyota Prius P0301 Causes
Misfires can be caused by many reasons from a faulty ignition system, fuel system, or internal engine failure. The most common reason for this to happen is faulty or worn-out spark plug coil packs, especially if it’s been a while since you had a tune-up.
- Faulty or worn spark plugs and/or spark plug wires
- Ignition issues, including failing or damaged ignition coils
- Distributor failure
- Faulty fuel injector
- Vacuum leak
- Low fuel pressure
- Camshaft and/or crankshaft sensor defective
- Engine timing off
- Leaking head gasket
- Low engine compression
- Poor quality fuel that is old or contaminated
- P0301 is one of the top 5 trouble codes for the Toyota Prius V.
Toyota Prius P0301 Symptoms
- Check Engine Light is on or flashing
- Engine runs rough, hesitates, or jerks when accelerating
- Drivers may not notice any adverse conditions when driving
- In some cases, drivers may experience decreased fuel economy, fuel smell from exhaust, rough idling, or lack of power from the engine
- Commonly associated with error codes: P0300, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306, P0307, P0308
How Do I Fix Toyota Prius Code P0301?
With a misfire fault, the first step is to get it diagnosed to figure out what is causing the engine to misfire.
If your vehicle is misfiring and you’re not comfortable diagnosing this issue at home, we recommend finding a RepairPal certified shop nearby to pinpoint the problem and give an accurate estimate for repairs.
These shops can not only help you figure out what’s going wrong before you waste time and money on the wrong parts, but they also offer a minimum 12-month, 12,000-mile warranty and stand behind all their estimates with guaranteed fair pricing.
> Find a RepairPal Certified Shop Near You
How Much Does It Cost to Fix Toyota Prius Code P0301?
P0301 can be caused by anything from old spark plugs to vacuum leaks to poor engine compression. It’s impossible to give an accurate estimate without properly diagnosing the issue first.
If you take your car to a shop for diagnosis, most shops will start with an hour of “diag time” (the time spent in labor diagnosing your specific issue). Depending on the shop’s labor rate, this typically costs somewhere between $75-$150. Many, if not most, shops will apply this diagnosis fee to any required repairs if you have them perform the repairs for you. From there, a shop will be able to give you an accurate estimate for repairs to fix your P0301 code.
Other Possible Repairs for Toyota Prius Code P0301
Once properly diagnosed, P0301 may require one or more of the following repairs to resolve the underlying issue. These prices are based on national averages and include parts and labor. Your cost may differ depending on your location and type of vehicle.
- Spark plugs: $66-$250
- Ignition Coils: $230-$640 (some cars require Intake manifold removal)
- Spark plug wires: $180-$240
- Fuel injectors: $1500-$1900
- Vacuum leak: $100-$200
- Fuel pump: $1300-$1700
- Fuel pressure regulator: $200-$400
DIY Steps to Diagnose Toyota Prius Code P0301
Engine code P0301 could be caused by a number of things, including faulty spark plugs, faulty ignition system, distributor failure, and more. If you’d like to try to fix code P0301 at home without throwing money at parts, you’ll want to follow the steps below for proper diagnosis. Keep in mind this is an intermediate-level diagnosis and repair and not recommended for beginners. Diagnosis requires more specialized equipment beyond what the FIXD Sensor can provide and it can be a time and labor-intensive process for inexperienced DIYers.
DIY difficulty level: Intermediate
This repair requires mechanical knowledge and is not recommended for beginners.
Tools/parts needed:
- Screwdrivers
- FIXD
- Digital multimeter
- 5/8in. Spark Plug Socket
- Ratchet, sockets, and extensions
- Fuel pressure gauge
- Compression tester
- Leakdown tester
- Spark plugs
- Spark plug wires
Step 1: Use FIXD to scan your Toyota Prius to verify P0301 is the only code present.
If other codes are present, they must be addressed first.
Step 2: Check for loose connectors at the ignition coils or for damaged wiring.
Look for loose engine ground wires as well. These can cause random misfire conditions. Tighten or connect where necessary.
Step 3: Check the condition of your spark plugs and spark plug wires.
Worn and old spark plug wires are common causes of random misfires. Replace spark plugs and wires if needed and recheck for misfires.
Step 4: Check for fuel system issues.
If you have determined that your ignition system is operating correctly, there may be a problem within your fuel system that is causing the random misfires. The following should be checked to ensure the engine is getting the proper amount of fuel:
- Check fuel pressure. Low fuel pressure can cause intermittent misfires on multiple cylinders. When the pressure is below the specification, the engine does not receive the proper amount of fuel and will start to lean misfire. The fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator could be the source of the low fuel pressure.
- Check that the fuel injectors are functioning properly and activating. Random misfires can be a sign of faulty or clogged fuel injectors that need to be replaced. Also, check that the fuel injector wiring is not damaged and is connected properly.
Step 5: Perform an engine compression and leakdown test.
If the ignition system and fuel system checks out, you may want to perform an engine compression test and leak down test to see if there are any mechanical problems causing your misfire. Some common mechanical problems that cause misfire can be:
- Leaking head gasket
- Broken valve spring
- Broken piston ring
- Worn valve guides
- Burned valve
- Timing chain or belt skipped tooth and engine is off time
Common Toyota Prius P0301 Diagnosis Mistakes
Loose fitting electrical connectors and broken or disconnected vacuum hoses are often overlooked. Oxygen sensor(s) are another common misdiagnosis for P0301.
Still Need Help Fixing Toyota Prius Code P0301?
If you’ve followed the steps above and are still experiencing Toyota Prius check engine code P0301, please contact the FIXD Mechanic Hotline if you’re a FIXD Premium subscriber or find a RepairPal certified shop near you to get the right repairs at a fair price.
Fixed It But The Check Engine Light Is Still On?
Check engine light sometimes need to be reset manually, check out our article:
How to Reset Your Check Engine Light | 4 Ways To Clear It (With or Without a Scanner)
At FIXD, our mission is to make car ownership as simple, easy, and affordable as possible. Our research team utilizes the latest automotive data and insights to create tools and resources that help drivers get peace of mind and save money over the life of their car.
Найдена следующая информация по ошибке P3001 для автомобиля ТОЙОТА PRIUS W30, 1.8HYBRYD (2ZR-FXE):
На русском языке:
Неисправность аккумулятора ECU
На английском языке:
Battery ECU Malfunction
Вы можете задать вопрос или поделиться опытом устранения ошибки P3001 на автомобиле ТОЙОТА с другими пользователями.
Возможную причину возникновения и советы по устранению можно найти в каталоге причин и советов:
Найти причину >>>
Ошибки (коды ошибок) полученные от прибора, сканера требуют правильной интерпретации информации, дабы не тратить время и деньги на замену работающих элементов автомобиля.
Проблема зачастую кроется намного глубже чем кажется на первый взгляд. Это& вызвано теми обстоятельствами, что информационные сообщения содержат, как было выше сказано, косвенную информацию о нарушении работы системы.
Может быть полезным для решения вопроса по устранению неисправности у Toyota (TYO) Prius W30, 1.8Hybryd (2ZR-FXE):
Неисправный аккумулятор ЭБУ
Электронный блок управления (ЭБУ) гибридного транспортного средства проверяет цепь напряжения аккумулятора на наличие сбоев путем сравнения с напряжением инвертора.